Fishing Deep Diving Crankbaits for Bass



1. Deep diving circuit board bills

2. Deep diving round bills

3. Deep diving flat sided crankbaits

4. Deep diving coffin bills

the far end of the crankbait spectrum sits a deep diving crankbait.
Every time you pick one up to use it is like you make a commitment. A
commitment to knowing that your main source and reason to use that
crankbait is a graph and a gut feeling and a commitment to still not
give up when it doesn’t always pay off.

Fishing deep diving
crankbaits can be really fun and it can be really slow. Trying to catch a
bass from such a depth can easily persuade doubt and uncertainty.
This can lead to inconsistency of your effectiveness and an overall
bad experience. But knowing what gear to use can make all the
difference. Knowing where the bass are at in the lake you are fishing
is another important thing to know when crankbait fishing. Once you
get those two factors down then consider those deep water bass yours.

to use a deep diving crankbait:

  • (12-25+ft) structure like deep underwater points (pre spawn/post spawn)

  • Deep flats with low vegetation (pre spawn/post spawn), or deep flats with vegetation and rip the crankbait right through and over it (pre spawn/post spawn)

  • Other deep water transitions and cover (underwater weed lines, boulders, humps)

use deep diving crankbaits there:

  • Those deep water bass like to stay close to some cover for protection and structer to help them ambush bait fish, so these places are where your deep crank should be


  • Another great time of year to use a deep crank is during early spring to
    catch hungry but lethargic bass

  • The next great time to dust off the deep cranks in midsummer when all
    the bass are done spawning and some moved back out to the deep, they
    are much more aggressive than before spawn and they are getting ready for their
    prime feeding time (fall)

to fish a deep diving crankbait:

  • Summer: fast, or stop and go retrieve at fast pace

  • Early spring: very slow, or stop and go retrieve at very slow pace

  • Hold your rod tip horizontally to achieve the crankbaits maximum depth
    and bottom contact, and for the most sensitivity

  • Cast far to maximize the baits time in the strike zone

gear to use:

  • ROD: Anywhere from a 7’ to a 7’8” rod is mostly preferred, Power Medium Heavy, to heavy action rod with a Medium to a Fast taper

  • REEL:5:4:1 – 6:4:1 gear ratio reels

  • LINE: 10-14 lb fluorocarbon or 20-30 (braid) to a fluorocarbon leader –
    lighter line helps the bait dive deeper and you get more sensitivity

colors to use and when:

Similar to medium diving crankbaits:

you are fishing clear water then using natural patterns and colors
like bluegill, sunfish, perch, shiner, shad, will yield more results.
When the water is clear the bass will be able to see your lure very
well so it’s best to stick with a natural presentation that the
bass are currently used to seeing. When the water is more stained or
murky then switch to the brighter colors like: white, yellow, blue,
and chartreuse. You do this because in murky waters with low
visibility you need something bright and colorful to get the bass’s
attention. When the visibility goes down for a given period of time,
those bass are relying more on the vibrations given off and pressure
changes created by other moving fish so they can eat and defend their
territory. So In these murky/muddy situations you can switch to a
crankbait with a very wide wobble to push more water side to side
with every left to right motion therefore creating a higher percent
chance of those bass feeling the bait. Also try to run your crankbait
into rocks, stumps with rattles to produce more noise.

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